26 June 2011

St. Peter's Basilica

The exit of the Vatican Museum feeds to the north side of St. Peter's, where visitors can choose to go inside the basilica or climb to the top of the dome. A few from our group elected to make the climb (which cost €7), but I chose to revisit the inside.

Walking into St. Peter's is an experience like none other. We went in around 17:30 as the sun made its way through the western sky and shone through the incredible stained glass window in the rear of the church and the windows in the dome directly above this structure:


To the immediate right of the entrance sits La Pietà, a sculpture by Michelangelo of Mary holding the body of Jesus after the crucifixion. The marble structure is now surrounded by glass, but this protection does not detract from the beauty of the piece.

La Pietà
I decided to let my mom take some pictures, and I walked around taking in every sculpture, marble tile and crevice I came across.

Since the beatification and canonization of Pope John Paul II, his tomb now lies in the alcove next to La Pietà. The ceremony recognizing his passage into heaven and sainthood took place on 1 May 2011, presided over by Pope Benedict XVI. It was incredible to see, especially since I had seen his original interment place on my first visit to the Vatican, just months after he passed in 2005.


We stood for a while near the rear of the church, where we had a spectacular view of the inside of the dome. There are images scattered throughout the alcoves, and this time I noticed something about them I hadn’t before. Most are mosaics, not paintings, as I had previously thought. Can you imagine all these beautiful designs made by hand, on such a large scale, out of tiny tiles? Incredible.

The dome in St. Peter's

Just to give you an idea of the scale: the pen in his hand is six feet long.

A mosaic under the dome in St. Peter's
On another note, Monday seemed to be 'athlete day' at the Vatican. As we left, we spotted Kerri Walsh, a two-time Olympic gold medalist in beach volleyball. She was in Rome for the Beach Volleyball World Championships (coincidentally held directly behind the pool at the Foro Italico). Definitely an exciting coincidence!


Ad for the Beach Volleyball World Championships

Musei Vaticani


From our hotel, we piled into four cabs and shortly arrived at the Piazza Pio XII in front of St. Peter's. We had a short hunt for our tour guide, Walter, whom we eventually met at the center of Piazza San Pietro, near the obelisk.
St. Peter's Square
We decided to tour the Vatican Museum and see the Sistine Chapel before venturing inside St. Peter's Basilica. Walter led us north and then west along the outside of the Vatican wall to the entrance to the museum. Walking this route reminded me of Mission: Impossible III, and I half expected to spot Tom Cruise sneakily creeping over the wall.

The walk to the entrance took about ten minutes. Typically, visitors pay €15 to enter, but those of us lucky students were able to use our school IDs to enter for only €8. Definitely a nice perk!

Just outside the entrance, we stopped to take in a view of the basilica dome and a portion of the Vatican gardens.
A small peek at the Vatican Gardens
Walter then led us through a large courtyard to the hall of statutes, which held an endless number of busts and sarcophagi dating to ancient Rome. He called it the Hollywood of ancient Rome, because all the busts depicted famous Romans.

The Hall of Statues
We walked outside to the octagonal courtyard, which held a number of Roman baths made from different types of marble and a series of statues and columns. The most famous sculpture in the courtyard was definitely the most impressive. Laocoön and His Sons, depicts a man fighting two snakes, sent as punishment by the goddess Athena, as his sons cowering on each side. This beautiful work of artistry conveys the anguish of the subjects and is incredible to behold. It's hard to imagine the painstaking work that went into creating such a complex and detailed sculpture.

Laocoön and His Sons
From there we went through another area full of statues dedicated to animals, the "inspiration from nature," Walter explained, which led to a series of other rooms housing everything from urns to candelabras to tapestries.

We were directed through the rooms of Raphael, the famous artist, who used colors and light like none other. The most prominent fresco, the School of Athens, is enormous and absolutely beautiful. The fresco depicts prominent philosophers, with Plato and Aristotle in the center.

School of Athens
The figure leaning on the box in the center of the fresco was painted in Michelangelo's likeness, after Raphael saw his work in the Sistine Chapel.

One of the four Raphael rooms had at one time been the bedroom for the pope. With frescoes completely covering the walls and ceilings, it seemed an overwhelming setting for a bedroom, and I came to the conclusion that with such detail everywhere, it must have been incredibly distracting. How do you sleep when there's so much to look at?

Liberation of St. Peter by an Angel {Source}
We concluded with the Sistine Chapel, a perfect last stop to the tour.

Now, if I thought the Raphael rooms were detailed, then no word exists to describe the frescoes in the chapel. Just the sheer scale of each panel, the size of the entire room and the color and contrast in each segment left everyone in awe. You could spend hours looking around the chapel and still not see everything. Unfortunately, with throngs of people waiting to gander a view of the Creation of Adam and the security guards silencing the crowd and keeping people from taking pictures, everyone must settle for just a few minutes of time beholding the masterpieces.

25 June 2011

Days 1 & 2

Two days in Rome feel like much more than that, to the extent that every time you step out of the hotel to go somewhere, each venture feels like its own day.

The first day, understandably, was a bit rough. We arrived at Fiumicino shortly after 8:00, which was 2:00 at home. Slightly groggy, we found our bags and exited the airport, where we met a representative from the Italian Federation, who welcomed us and helped with our transportation to the hotel.

Our "place of residence" for the week was just north of the main part of the city and is about ten minutes away from the pool. We took a short break before lunch at noon, then rested until 15:00, when we headed to the pool for a short Sunday swim. After consulting the concierge on the best walking route to the pool, I left a little early with my teammate Julie, and we navigated the hilly and absolutely amazing path to the 'Foro Italico.'

The building that houses the original pool in the sports complex
After a swim, we had some time before dinner at 19:00, so I viciously fought sleep in an attempt to avoid jet lag, and I won! NOT. I passed out while my roommate Lindsey read, and only woke up when our teammates came knocking on the door to see if we were ready for dinner.

The second day fortunately involved much less blank staring and spontaneous sleeping.

We woke up at 7:25 for breakfast, which was (of course) delicious. Yogurt with granola, fresh fruit, blood orange juice (SO tasty), and a double espresso, just for good measure.

We left for the pool at 8:40, and when we arrived, made the circuitous trek through the indoor facility to the adjacent pool from the 1960 Olympics (shown below).

Side note about the indoor pool: it was constructed in the 1930s and is made entirely from marble. Yes, the entire surface of the pool, along with the meticulous mosaics on the walls and floors of the facility, which depict athletes competing in Olympic sports.

The indoor pool

Back to practice. We had four of 10 lanes and swam from 9-11, and though a good number of us still felt exhausted/out of sync/weird, it was still amazing to be back swimming in that pool.

The pool on our first day in Rome.

We returned to the hotel for lunch, which was a fabulous feast of fresh pasta, grilled zucchini, salad, bread, prosciutto...basically everything delicious you expect in an Italian lunch. Throw in some sparkling water, which seems more common here than flat water, and the meal is complete.

Basically immediately after lunch, we went to our rooms to change into appropriate clothing for our visit to Vatican City...

(To be continued.)

Home!

After two weeks of high-intensity travel, competition and exploration, I am finally home! It was an absolutely phenomenal trip, and now I will be able to document everything.

Traveling light (i.e. without my own computer) and with minimal guarantee of a workable Internet connection meant absolutely no opportunity to create blog posts. So, I will now make up for that by posting day-by-day the details of the trip, but on a two-week delay...

...and starting tomorrow, seeing as it's actually...01:20 Rome time.

11 June 2011

Michael Lohberg: 1950-2011


            Michael loved classic rock, wore the same sunglasses all the time and knew how to enjoy a good meal. He was a father, a husband, a son, and swim coach too, but he was so much more than that.
            A singularly incredible man, Michael effused character. With all his knowledge of and allegiance to swimming, no one would ever guess that he had never really competed in the sport. He was a student of sport in general, having studied physiology and physical education, and took to coaching swimming with an unmatched dedication.
            But that’s how he was. German to the core, he barked into the phone when interrupted during practice, but immediately returned to coaching with a signature impish chuckle, forgetting any irritation from the disruption.
            Michael had a way of making every person he talked to feel as if he or she was the most important, most capable individual in the world. He reached everyone, and did so in a thousand different ways. He coached swimmers to six Olympic Games, and while he trained those Olympians in the same pool as his high school age groupers, everyone garnered the same degree of his respect.

            My sister both swam for Michael and helped him as an assistant coach. She acknowledged the same feeling. “Michael was the type of coach, and the type of man, who cared equally about his swimmers regardless of their talent for the sport. He was brutally honest but never elitist. He dedicated all of his energy to helping each swimmer realize his or her fullest potential, both in the pool and in life,” she said.
            The more I think about the time I spent with Michael, the more I realize how generous he was with himself. He shared his life with his family, his wife and his children, and with his swimmers.
            He shared little pieces with all of us—but not all at once. It might not make sense, but Michael had a different relationship with everyone, and still managed to make everyone feel worthwhile. He knew how to talk to people, how to say exactly what we needed to hear, however frankly or gently it had to be said. But no two people needed the same thing, and Michael knew that. He wrote three, four, as many as six different practices for one session to fit the needs of his swimmers. It seemed supernatural that Michael accomplished that feat. But he coached because he loved it, and he was and will remain an indelible part of all our lives.

            Michael had a way of recognizing people’s strengths. He had his fun with doing so, however. He liked to keep secrets, let people make their own decisions, and later help fix mistakes, or (more than likely) laugh at you in that omniscient way, because he knew all along how things would turn out, but just let you learn for yourself.
            There is so much of my life that is filled with Michael. He helped me learn to be truly honest with myself, to appreciate life’s surprises. He offered me opportunities, and with the support of my parents and his guidance and coaching, I learned so much, traveled all over the world, met extraordinary people and made lifelong friends. The list goes on.
           
            I previously mentioned Michael’s influence on my first trip to Rome, but I did not do it justice. He had an incredible ability to appreciate the things around him, and that ability was heightened in Europe. He embraced being there, and wanted me to experience all that I could.  When we arrived, he told me to enjoy it, and then proceeded to guide me through the magic of Europe (which, let’s face it, mostly involved food).
            To this day, I don’t remember the times I swam in Rome. I remember Michael steering me into a pizza place and ordering for me, watching me eat the most delicious thing in the world and laughing his distinctive chuckle: “he he he!” before diving into his own slice. I remember him walking through St. Peter’s Basilica, pointing out each statue, painting, engraving and magically explaining what the writing around the top of the walls meant. When we traveled to Monte Carlo for a second meet, I remember him walking down to breakfast with me that first morning, and teaching me the wonders of Nutella on a freshly baked, flakey French croissant.
            Michael knew how to appreciate those things in life. He knew it wasn’t about the times, or about making finals at the meets. It was about reveling in the experience.

            There are so many stories of Michael. If you could, count every swimmer he ever coached, count his daughter, his son, his wife, his assistant coaches and his friends. Count the people he knew, even those he only just met, and multiply that number by 100. You still won’t be able to reach the number of stories this world could tell about Michael.
            Even so, nothing anyone could ever write or say could do justice to the life Michael led or created for those around him.

            Whenever I came home from school, Michael always had a comment that first day. Something along the lines of: “you’re out of shape,” or “you don’t look so bad,” which he’d say while looking knowingly over the top of his sunglasses. I couldn’t help but love his way of saying things, probably because they were said with love, and with genuine care.
            Michael trusted us with his opinion. His honesty, with a dash of brutality or with a bear hug and a chortle, immediately provided a sense of security, and you knew right away you could trust him. If you looked like trash in the water, he’d say so. If you finally swam some solid times in practice, he’d laud you. He was always right. If you asked him how he was doing, he’d say, “I’m so tired…but how are you? Is there anything I can do for you?”
            Nothing ever seemed to faze him. He ran practices, he researched new techniques, new methods of making us faster. He stood on deck for hours, walking back and forth with two stopwatches in hand, calling out times and corrections, along with some choice German words. He arranged Saturday practices so he could leave in time to see his son’s soccer games. And nothing made him prouder than talking about the strong will of his daughter and how well she was doing in school.
            No matter in what capacity we knew Michael, he impacted all of us—as an incredible coach, mentor, father, friend, and as a truly wonderful human being.

10 June 2011

Freeky Friday

Freeky Friday


Starting today, any Friday postings will be devoted to positivity, unity and love, in the name of Freekware. Two special bloggers (Concrete Jane, to whom I owe the design of this page, and Doctor Princess) inspired this Friday trend, and I invite you to learn more about it here: Concrete Jane. These posts will recognize the lifestyle that Freekware promotes, and today I respond to a prompt that I will (conveniently) relate to my blog.

"We're all getting psyched for summer. What plans are you most looking forward to?"

Well, since I leave tomorrow, my immediate answer is: ROME.

I'm looking forward to absolutely everything. Our group arrives Sunday morning and as of now, we have no definite plans, but I imagine we will find our hotel, get some food, fight jet lag and begin the adventure.

Our coach has arranged for us to swim Monday through Thursday in the mornings, with afternoons free for sightseeing (yay!). There are a few must-sees for me: the Pantheon, Villa Borghese and Bocca della Verita (see inspiration for this choice below). I somehow managed to miss the Pantheon in my last trips, but it's first on my list this time, and I will not forego the visit.
Bocca della Verita in Roman Holiday, with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.

Looking past the sightseeing, I'm also ridiculously excited for the meet. The atmosphere of an international swim meet is nearly indescribable. It's three days and six sessions of intense competition and high-quality racing, made even more incredible by the friendly interactions among swimmers of every nationality. Any difference of languages doesn't even matter, really, because everyone speaks swimming.

This next week will certainly be an experience, and I'm looking forward to exploring Rome yet again and competing in that beautiful pool.

Happy Friday!

03 June 2011

Why, oh why do we love this sport?

Swimming is hard. It requires an incredible amount of blind faith, the constant beating-down of your body with small amounts of recovery, and only rare tangible rewards for hard work.

I don't know how it works for other swimmers, but only every once in a while do I have a great practice. Don't get me wrong, most practices are rewarding in their own way (only a few are complete stinkers), but those quality practices where everything aligns--where technique and strength combine to make a great set run smoothly--those are rare.

I had one of those today. I've been home from school, training with my club team, for two and a half weeks. Today was the first day I felt like I was swimming, not flailing.

It always takes some time to transition from college training to club training: refining technique, getting strength back. Challenge. Earlier this week I was a little nervous, because with slow times and a great deal of thrashing, the outlook for Rome seemed grim. But now, to be completely corny, I seem to have turned the corner at "Embarrassing Street" onto "Legitimate Swimming Avenue," and I finally feel on the right track.

Definitely one of those days that serves as a reminder that every little thing I do each day will eventually make a difference. I just have to remember to hold out for that ultimate satisfaction.

***

Yesterday during practice, one of my teammates turned to me and said, "can you believe we leave in basically a week?" No, I can't. I've been talking to my mom, who is joining us for the trip, trying to plan which sites we want to see in our free time.

My darling mother is an expert traveler (probably due largely to her time as a flight attendant) and an excellent planner. She has been reading, researching, marking spots on maps and detailing an endless number of possible activities. One site in particular, which I will highlight here, is the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls.

The early structure of the basilica was said to be built in the 4th century, but has been expanded and rebuilt numerous times since. It stands over the burial place of St. Paul, and was consecrated by Pope Sylvester in 324.

Photo courtesy: http://www.vatican.va/
It literally is "outside the walls," in the south, south of Rome, quite far from where we will be staying, but I hope we'll make it there. It's accessible by bus and metro, a guaranteed interesting experience for me: riding mass transit in a foreign country! Guess I should work on my Italian...